Mounting A Mosaic On Clear Adhesive Film

Clear contact paper can be used to temporarily mount a design of mosaic tile, but it really isn’t sticky enough to be as useful as it should be, and it is better to use the clear mosaic mounting tapes (films) that are specifically designed for that purpose. I have used clear contact paper for small mosaics (less than 1 square foot), but even with something that small and simple, there were problems with tiles falling off and moving around when the sheet was pressed into the mortar. Mosaic mounting tapes have strong but removable adhesives. They are available in 6″ widths and 12″ widths, but you can always overlap narrow tape to temporarily mount a mosaic of any width.

Note that clear contact paper is still used in the method explained below, but it only serves to keep the tiles from moving around while you apply the clear mounting tape.


The paper pattern is taped down to the work surface and clear contact paper is taped STICKY SIDE UP over that. The purpose of the contact paper is to keep the tile from moving around after you position them. After all the tile has been placed, the top of the mosaic design is covered in clear mosaic mounting tape, which is much stronger than contact paper.

Instructions for Using Clear Mosaic Mounting Tape

1. Tape or tack your paper mosaic pattern to your work table.

2. Tape or tack clear contact paper UPSIDE DOWN on top your paper mosaic pattern.

3. Position your tile on the pattern, sticking the bottoms of the tile to the sticky contact paper.

4. After all of your tile is in place, cover the top of the mosaic with clear mosaic mounting tape.

5. If your mosaic is larger than a square foot or two, then use a box cutter to cut the mosaic into manageable sections.

Note that sections you cut in step 5 do not have to be squares. Unless you are shipping the sheets to a client for installation by a contractor, there is no need try get them into roughly even squares. Instead, it makes more sense to divide the mosaic in places that make it easiest to line the sheets up when they are permanently mounted in mortar or adhesive.

Advantages of This Method

Using clear mounting tape has several advantages, and they are each significant:

  1. It allows you to work with the tile and the mosaic in progress FACE UP.
  2. The temporarily mounted mosaic is still visible through the clear mounting tape, which can be very important for lining up the sheets when you press them into thinset. A perfectly executed mosaic can be permanently flawed if an installer leaves a slightly extra wide gap between sheets.
  3. There is no mounting mesh involved, and thus the tile can be pressed directly into thinset mortar for maximum life outdoors and in wet locations. Mesh requires an adhesive be used to attach it to the tile, and that is a point of vulnerability, and Achilles heal that moisture could penetrate and delaminate over time.

Expensive Mounting Tape Is Actually Cheap

A 100-foot roll of mounting tape currently sells at our website for either $70.31 or $135.52 depending on whether you get the 6-inch width or the 12-inch width. Now that might be a little steep for a small project at home or maybe even a mosaic for a client that you happen to be installing yourself. But consider the following scenario: You have been commissioned by a high-end hotel or casino to make a 50 square foot mosaic to be installed behind their bar. The mosaic is highly detailed, possibly even photo-realistic, and it is made from several thousand dollars of smalti, and you have spent three or four months making it.

Do you really want to risk having their installer accidentally getting irregular widths between sheets? If you use opaque mosaic mounting paper, then the problem will not be discovered until the mortar has hardened and permanently set.

“Professional Installers”

A word about “professional installers” and other contractors: I have received more than a few emails over the years from high-end architectural jobs in places like NYC and LA where “professional installers” have done things like press sheets of tile PAPER-FIRST (I kid you not) into thinset and similar bonehead goofs. If all your “professional installer” has done is install 4-inch glazed ceramic tile in bathrooms, it doesn’t matter how many years of “professional” experience they have.

If you have to involve a contractor in your mosaic art project, don’t be surprised if you have to talk to a few before you find someone with relevant experience or even basic competence. In my experience, this is true of many aspects of home renovation, but it is particularly true of mosaic. Many contractors claiming to know something of mosaic have actually done only basic tiling using the materials and methods relevant to larger glazed ceramic tile.

14 thoughts on “Mounting A Mosaic On Clear Adhesive Film

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  5. Renee

    Thank you for your informative article. I had a mosaic mounted to the adhesive tape and a piece broke. I had one heck of a time getting it off the tape and now I’m afraid to mount it for fear I won’t be able to get the tape off after mortaring it to the wall. Is there a trick for removing the tape once the project is mortared?

    1. Joe Moorman Post author

      Pull the tape off by pulling parallel to the surface of the mosaic instead of out from the surface of the mosaic.
      I hope this helps.

  6. Sherri Grasmuck

    Hey Joe,
    This sounds intriguing and seemingly easier than using wellbond to glue directly to the mesh. You mention every step in the mosaic transfer process using tape here except what happens to the contact paper? Obviously it has to come off before you press it into thinset but I am wondering how easily that happens? It would seem that just pulling it off after you have turned it over would also pull off the tiles. What am I missing?

    1. Joe Moorman Post author

      Hi Sherri,

      The use of contact paper is based on the fact that it isn’t very sticky. We don’t use it to pick tiles up but rather to keep them from moving around on the pattern while we apply the mounting tape or paper to the tops of the tiles. Then we lift the sheets off the contact paper.

      If you are using mounting mesh, then you don’t need the sticky contact paper sticky side up. In that case, you would put it over your paper pattern sticky side down to protect the pattern and keep glue from sticking to it. Then you would lay mesh over the top of this protected pattern, and then you would glue tiles to it.


  7. Brad Roberts

    I have glass tile on film that I’m about to install. The back side without the film are different heights and curved shapes. The side with the film a semetrical flat 1/2″ tiles. When installed, should all the tiles be smith or will some be raised?
    PS. I actually like the look of the back.
    PSS. No manufacturer information known.

    1. Joe Moorman Post author

      Hi Brad,
      The embossed face is the back. Those ridges and bumps help the cement grip the tile. The flat side under the tape is the face of the tiles.

  8. Steve

    is this the same 5.5mm tape I see on other sites for a lower price or is it a heavier tape?. How thick is the tape? Who is the manufacturer?

    1. Joe Moorman Post author

      Hi Steve,

      All I know about our tape is that it was chosen base on it’s reliable hold and ease of use compared to other tapes. I bought it from a supplier who produces custom-made mosaics. Thanks.

  9. Stacy Koss

    Hi Joe

    I came here because I was reading the article about “Fish Shower Mosaic by Jen Vollmer” and it spoke about different thicknesses of glass and tile in the same mosaic. I have just started a kitchen backsplash mosaic and this situation is exactly what I am dealing with. I am using sticky mesh for the mosaic and what will be the ‘backdrop’ of the mosaic is Mother of Pearl subway pieces which are about half the thickness of the glass……ugh….should I use the mosaic tape to raise the Mother of Pearl to the height of the glass? My goal is to have the Mother of Pearl shell and the glass to be the same height.
    Not sure how I’m going to do this…… help!! Thx

    1. Joe Moorman Post author

      Hi Stacy,

      All is not lost! I wrote and article about how to build up areas for mosaic insets between thicker tiles or borders.

      In your case, the height needed to be built up is probably small, and so you could probably use plain thinset mortar with no extra fillers to build up the area. However, thinset contracts or “thins” during the first 3 days or so of the curing process, and so you would want to build the area up at least 3 days before using more thinset to mount the tiles.

      If you build the area up, but it contracts more than you want, then you can add more thinset when you mount the tiles. That is preferred to building the area up too much and then having great difficulty in scraping it down.

      Do some experiments on a scrap piece of plywood before you do the project so that you can work out how much to put down and how much it contracts.

      I hope this helps!


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